The sleeper train that’s a wild ride to another world

It’s a Tuesday night on the Caledonian Sleeper, which runs six days a week from London to Scotland, and the Club Car is in full swing.

Having feasted on fare such as Scottish haggis, neeps and tatties, passengers are sampling malt whiskies and Edinburgh gins as they make new friends across the swivel seats and cozy booths, smartly upholstered in burnt orange and teal blue.

We left behind the congested bustle of London’s Euston station at 8 p.m. and in just over 12 hours we’ll be at Fort William, dubbed the "outdoor capital of the UK" and home to the highest mountains in the country, including the 4,413-foot Ben Nevis.

This 500-mile journey from Britain’s south to north is nicknamed the Deerstalker – a White Stag is the Caledonian Sleeper’s logo – and it’s considered the most scenic of the train’s five routes, which cover both Scottish cities and the deepest Highlands.

The train got a $200 million makeover in 2019, and continues a 150-year legacy of sleeper train services between London and Scotland.

It’s one of only two sleeper train services in Britain, the other being the Night Riveria Sleeper, which heads west from London Paddington to the Cornish seaside town of Penzance).

It’s a prestige train with prices to match. Fares are dynamic, so if you want to take your chances in the seated carriage, with its plush first-class feel and adjustable lighting, headrests, seat pads and footrests, you can typically pick an advance one up one-way for around £55 ($72).

That’s about £20 more than what you might pay for an hour-long return flight to Edinburgh, the Scottish capital, making the Caledonian Sleeper the more glamorous, luxurious and environmentally sustainable option, but also the slowest and most expensive by far.

The most high-end option, the double ensuite with a proper bed, русский анальный секс breakfast delivered to your room and station lounge access, typically runs to about $325 per person one way – although it’s usually sold out well in advance.